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DIY - Care Care Tips
You will need
  • Vehicle jack
  • Car stands
  • Brake cleaner
  • Brake pads

Your vehicle's disc brake pads & rotors handle up to 75% of your vehicle's braking needs. If your brake pads are worn thin then the braking power may be severely reduced. This can not only cause expensive rotor damage, but is dangerous. Most brake pads should last between 30,000 and 65,000 kilometres, depending on your driving conditions. Therefore, inspect your disc brake pads regularly and replace if needed with quality brake pads available at Super Cheap Auto.

Servicing your brakes

Step 1 - Remove the wheel

Loosen the wheel nuts. Raise and secure the vehicle with a jack and car stands on level ground. Remove wheel nuts and wheel. Inspect for leakage, and then clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner. Next remove the calliper fasteners but not the calliper. On some vehicles the brake pads are held onto the callipers with special clips. Make note of their location before removing, and use new clips (if supplied) when reinstalling. Note: ABS brakes maintain line pressure even after your vehicle has been parked. Depress the brake pedal a few times before beginning the job to release any residual pressure.

Step 2 - Remove the brake pads

Remove and secure the calliper to the vehicle using heavy wire (never allow the calliper to hang by the brake hose). Remove the outboard pad and use a spreading tool or c-clamp to compress the calliper piston.

Step 3 - Inspect calliper

With both brake pads removed and the calliper piston compressed, inspect the calliper and replace if leaks are found on the calliper or piston boot. Uneven wear also indicates calliper problems.

Step 4 - Inspect the rotor

Inspect the rotor for excessive bluing, cracks, grooves, shiny spots, or scoring. If the rotor is damaged, remove and replace it. Note: consult your vehicle's specific car manual if rotor removal is required. This is also an ideal time to inspect the wheel bearing.

Step 5 - Assemble the brake pads

For brake pad assembly, reverse the disassembly process outlined above. Ensure the area and materials are clean while completing the job. Don't forget to install the fasteners, retaining clips and anti-squeal compound.

How to get rid of brake dust

 

Step 1 - Allow the wheels to cool

Make sure the wheels are cool. Wheels absorb heat from the braking process. Allow the wheels to cool off and do your cleaning in the shade.

 

Step 2 - Rinse the rim

Rinse the entire rim to remove any grit that may scratch your wheels during the scrubbing process.

 

Step 3 - Spray with wheel cleaner

Spray the entire rim with wheel cleaner that's safe to use on your wheels and allow to soak for 60 seconds. Be sure to spray into all of the nooks and crannies where brake dust accumulates.

 

Step 4 - Scrub the wheel

After the cleaner soaks for the allotted time, take a soft bristle brush and lightly scrub the surface. Select a brush that fits into all of the recessed areas.

 

Step 5 - Rinse off wheel cleaner

Rinse off the wheel cleaner immediately after you have brushed the brake dust loose. These cleaners are extremely strong and may affect the wheel's finish if left on too long.

 

Step 6 - Dry the wheel

Dry the wheel immediately to prevent water spots. Minerals in some types of water will etch into a wheel as easily as corrosive brake dust.

 

Step 7 - Apply wax paste

Applying a coat of paste wax every six months provides excellent protection against brake dust pitting your wheels. It also makes them easier to clean.

Don't forget the inside surface of your wheels. They get the bulk of the brake dust build-up and can be easily seen with open spoke style wheels.

Tips and Warnings

Understanding your brake system – How to inspect and maintain it yourself

  • Brake pads are designed with indicators that emit a scraping sound when worn out. If you hear this sound when applying your brakes, they need replacing.
  • A brake pedal that continually creeps toward the floor while you are stationary indicates a problem with the hydraulic system (such as an air bubble, leaking internal seal or an external leak).
  • Most problems within a hydraulic system are caused by contaminants in old brake fluid, which pulls water out of the air, and can corrode metals and destroy the rubber seals.
  • If your brakes are locking, then your stopping distance will be longer than if your brakes are on the verge of lockup. ABS (Anti-Lock Brake Systems) use sensors to prevent a wheel from locking up, and provide shorter stopping distances.
  • As the friction material wears, more brake fluid is displaced to the wheels and any sudden excessive decrease in your brake fluid level may indicate a problem. You should regularly check the fluid level in your master cylinder. If you notice your brake fluid has a cloudy or brown appearance or contains sediment then it should be flushed, as this indicates the presence of water or corroded metal.
  • Always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container and ensure you use the correct DOT (Department of Transportation) specification number for your vehicle.
  • If the brake pedal becomes hard to depress, check for vacuum leaks around the hose that connects to the brake booster canister.

* For more information on your vehicle's brake requirements & specifications refer to your specific car manual, or ask a friendly Team Member in-store.

 

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